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News
Hawaiian Beat
Thursday, 04 February 2010
DENNIS & ROSAMUND KNILL explore the visual beauty and the diversity of Hawaii and soon discover these are just some of the charms of an island paradise.
Photo supplied: Hawaii Tourism Authority/Sri Maiava Rusden.
Looking down from the window of the aircraft you cannot help but be enraptured with the first sight of this Pacific paradise. From the air Hawaii looks like a cluster of sugarloaves strewn between seas of verdure and blue and azure - the Polynesian gods have been very kind.
The Hawaiian Islands are a place of majestic contrasts and geologic extremes where, over millions of years, nature has assembled volcanoes, mountains, tropical rainforests and idyllic beaches making this a destination filled with fun, sun and adventure.
Inside the hotel lobby, the porter gathers our luggage, the cabdriver pauses, then says apologetically, “sorry, don’t accept credit cards” - hang about isn’t this America, a country founded on credit?
It’s no co-incidence that most tourists flock to Waikiki, it’s the ultimate playground for holidaymakers and home to the picture perfect Hawaiian experience. But it wasn’t always like that, once a mosquito-infested wetland it wasn’t until the 1920’s when the real thrust towards tourism really started. Back in those days the Hollywood stars came in droves with their trunks of worldly possessions and exotic motor cars. Nowadays, it’s less complicated- T-shirts, shorts and sun-tan lotion.
Seven million tourists visit Oahu annually. Considered brasher than the other islands it’s well suited for those who prefer variety and social activities. With most of the activities revolving around sun and surf you would be foolish not to insist on a beachfront room where cool breezes, rolling surf and fiery sunsets cast their magic spell.
From our balcony we can see the fabled ‘pink palace’ - The Royal Hawaiian Hotel, one of Hawaii’s premier luxury hotels. Built in 1927 it has recently been refurbished while still retaining its unique charm, elegance and affluent clientele. And in the ocean beyond, dozens of bronzed beach-boys sit motionless on their surfboards waiting for the next big wave surge, night or day Kalakaia Ave attracts throngs of shoppers and sightseers, and the Waikiki Beach walk is a revitalisation of nearly 8-acres recently transformed into dining, entertainment and retail therapy.
Honolulu sunset. Photo supplied: Hawaii Tourism Authority/Ron Dahlquist.
Emerging from our hotel looking the like part of the beach culture club we quickly fell in with the crowds. A left turn and we would saunter down the boardwalk towards Diamond Head stopping daily to chat to ‘Bob’ trying to sell baseball caps with ‘Aloha Hawaii’ emblazoned across the brim. Beyond the glitz and glamour he told us there is another side where ordinary people like himself have three or four jobs just to make enough money to pay the rent otherwise they become homeless living and sleeping in the parks.
Downtown Honolulu is the business hub and a city graced by beautiful gardens, the arts and unique architecture with buildings like Lolani Palace. You can easily spend a day there and one of the best places to learn about Hawaii is at the Bishop Museum. On display are numerous exhibits covering the history of Hawaii, hands-on science exhibits, contemporary work by native American artists and a planetarium. The Academy of Arts is another excellent draw card with a dazzling collection of exhibits, many predating the year BC.
A visit to Shangri La is a must do experience. Constructed in 1935 by Doris Duke, daughter of tobacco magnate James Duke and the richest girl in the world. Duke’s personal Persian-inspired waterfront folly remains fully in tact and is one of Oahu’s most prominent landmarks spread over 5-acres of prime real estate.
To escape the crowds and to sample the real Oahu, we booked a full day coach tour around the island. Most of the tours include a visit to Pearl Harbour usually at first light to avoid the 3,000 daily visitors that start showing up as soon as the sun rises.
At 8am on 7 December 1942 hundreds of Japanese fighter planes attacked a slumbering Honolulu, sinking all but three ships from the American fleet and killing thousands of servicemen. At the Memorial Visitors Centre a short video gives an historical account of that historic day before the US Navy ferries visitors out to the harbour shrine. The hull of USS Arizona lies on the harbour floor with oil still leaking from the engine room and to commemorate this tragic day a striking white edifice sits over the mid-section of the rusting wreckage and watery grave for the 1100 sailors that served onboard.
The USS Missouri was launched after the attack on 29 January 1944 and later served as the site of imperial Japan’s formal unconditional surrender to Allied Powers on 2 September 1945 while anchored in Tokyo Bay, Japan. Today, as the “Battleship Missouri Memorial,” the decommissioned, private non-profit-operated ship is located a ship’s length from the USS Arizona Memorial, completing a historical visitor experience that begins with the “day of infamy” that saw the sinking of USS Arizona in Pearl Harbor and ends with Japan’s unconditional surrender aboard the USS Missouri in Tokyo Bay.
Koolau Mountains. Photo supplied: Hawaii Tourism Authority/Chuck Painter.
Ask anyone who’s been to Hawaii which island they enjoyed most and Kauai is rarely mentioned. Kauai is Hawaii’s oldest island and first born with a legacy of paradise to uphold. Rich in beauty, Kauai is Hawaii at its best. On one side of the road there are dramatic scarps and mountain ranges heightened by hibiscus, bougainvillea and other flowering shrubs, while on the other, breathtaking seascapes, idyllic beaches with rolling surf and ocean swells that turn into giant waves of 50-feet or more during winter.
“I don’t know why it is that we Americans and you Kiwis hit it off so well,” says the enthused shuttle driver as we made the 2-minute journey from the airport to the sprawling car rental complex. “And listen here I’ve got some tips for you guys, mind the chickens that escaped after a hurricane a few years ago, they out number us islanders 5-to-1, don’t litter or you’ll be fined $1000, and remember we have strict smoking laws, and you Kiwis who drive on the wrong side of the road, be careful.”
We could easily fall fiercely in love with this place! So with slight trepidation and driving directions we left the airport behind and headed north-east.
The north-eastern coast has the most dramatic and stunning scenery with the road ending at Ke’e Beach and the cut-off point from north to west. We meander down to the edge of the Pacific Ocean but the beach is deserted yet the car park is full, it all seemed rather strange.
“Where is everyone?” we asked the lone solitary lifeguard. Pointing to the signs he tells us that they’ve donned their hiking boots and headed inland to explore Kalalau Trail, an 11-mile trek along the Na Pali cliffs. We decided to follow suit but not the full hike, just a few miles inland to a beach with thundering surf and the 300-foot Hanakapiai Falls that turned out to be right on the money.
When we weren’t at the waters edge we were exploring Hanalei, a funky little village with scores of surfies trading or buying surfboards - here the extreme sport of surfing holds true. Time for a quick coffee at Hanalei Bay then the road makes a steady climb to Princeville and the 5-star St Regis Resort, Kauai’s crown jewel.
Perched on a promontory with sheer cliffs and drop-dead gorgeous views of the surging blue ocean melting into the horizon. We lunched on the terrace, mostly eating in silence and utterly mesmerised by the most spectacular view and with some of the best food in Kauai.
Photo supplied: Hawaii Tourism Japan.
Having resisted the urge to spend the rest of the afternoon soaking up the magnificent scenery around us we headed back towards Lihue stopping off at the Kilauea lighthouse and exploring some of side-roads not frequented by tourists that would suddenly reveal solitary tiny coves of golden sand.
In contrast to the north-eastern side, west Kauai is sliced by the Waimea Canyon, a 3,500 foot-deep gorge meticulously etched and eroded over millions of years from the streams of the Wakaleha Mountains and the wetlands. Its one of those places when prehistoric geology reaches out its hand to tourists, plunging horizons of sculptured walls that drop sheer for half a mile to the ridge of the canyon floor.
To get there our driving skills were soarly tested by the narrow 2-lane winding road to the ridge of the canyon and as luck would have it we struck the winds blowing from the south creating dense swirling mists. The mist would clear for a few moments to reveal the plunging lush valleys and gorges below, the sort of view that makes the hairs on the back of your neck stand up.
Questioning the local food vendor as to how long the cloud would linger, his response was straight to the point, “don’t come here when there’s a southerly blowing, it can sit around for hours, even days.” So with that piece of knowledge we turned around and headed back to Poipu the other recreational and sophisticated hot-spot for visitors that is remarkably free of tourist blight.
With lunchtime approaching the plan was to check out the Grand Hyatt and our fear that we may be exposed to some standardised hotel fare was utterly wrong. The only place to be at this time of the day was The Terrace restaurant overlooking a tranquil pool framed by flowering gardens and beyond, the Pacific Ocean. Forgive the romanticism but what a delicious and satisfying lunch this was.
After 5-days on Kauai we wondered what the Hawaiian words for paradise were? Well we never did quite raise the energy to find out but no doubt it is something that aptly describes a place with pristine beaches, an easy pace of life that’s just the ticket to unwinding far from the maddening crowds. Already it’s time to go back and to fall in love with Hawaii all over again!
Photo supplied: Hawaii Tourism Authority/Ron Dahlquist.
NEED TO KNOW:
Getting There:
Air New Zealand has two flights a week. Contact Air New Zealand Holidays 0800 747 222 or log onto www.airnewzealand.co.nz
Where to Stay:
An abundance of accommodation to suit all budgets
Getting Around:
Honolulu: A 4-day $25 bus pass the best option. Kauai: Rental car essential. You’ll need to adapt to driving on the right
Tipping:
Work on 10% to 15%
Best Shopping:
Waikiki: Ala Moana
Best Eats:
Waikiki: Indigo (Eurasian), Hy’s (steakhouse), Tokkuri Tei (Japanese), Kincailds (seafood), Aranciodi (Italian), Phuket Thai (Thai), Duc’s Doon Kau Lau (Vietnamese). Blue Water Shrimp (seafood). Kauai: Luau at Kilohana Plantation, Red Salt (seafood), Gaylord’s (French), Grand Hyatt (international), Mediterranean (seafood), Beach House (fine dining), St Regis (international), Fish Express (seafood), Dolphin (seafood)
Places of Interest:
Honolulu: Academy of Arts, Iolani Palace, Bishop Museum, Polynesian Culture Centre, Valley of Temples, Holomanu Botanical Gardens, Pali Look-out, Hawaii Theatre Centre, Chinatown, Dole Pineapple Plantation, Tropical Farms, Kauai: Waimea Canyon and Kalalau Look-outs, Russian Fort, Kilauea Lighthouse, Old Koloa Town
Background Reading: Hawaii lonely planet by Jeff Campbell, Frommers Hawaii by Jeanette Foster
Further Information: www.gohawaii.com
Dennis & Rosamund Knill were assisted by Air New Zealand, Hawaii Tourism, Blis Travelguard and Southern Cross Travel Insurance.
Copyright: Dennis and Rosamund Knill, January 2010
