Overheard while strolling along the jetty at Palm Cove: “Gidday mate any sharks here? No mate, they’re all too scared of the crocodiles – dinkum!” Such is life in Northern Queensland where regardless of all the warning signs along the beaches the locals take it all in their stride. But not so the tour operators who see this as a lot of hype scaring tourists witless. 

Port Douglas.

Queensland together with its cliché ‘the sunshine state’ makes up about a quarter of Australia’s vast land mass with a coastline that exceeds 5,000 kilometres. In less than 5-hours from Auckland, you’re in another world, unhurried, uncrowded, unspoiled, call it what you like. It’s also one of Australia’s fastest growing holiday markets with the highest growth coming from New Zealand. While the Gold Coast still attracts the largest numbers from our shores, Northern Queensland’s lights are shining brightly as it continues to seduce more and more Kiwis with its lazy pace of life.

Cairns International Airport is the gateway and the tropical heart of the north. It’s also the perfect base from which to explore the surrounding tablelands. A 60-minute leisurely drive north along one of the most picturesque highways in the world brings you to Port Douglas, a small laid back coastal town that’s relaxed and relaxing. One of Australia’s ultimate holiday playgrounds Port Douglas is home to world-class resorts, long stretches of white sandy beaches, tropical rainforests and the main platform to the Great Barrier Reef.

Flames of the Forest.

We first came here 30-years ago, back then it was nothing more than a sleepy little fishing village on the edge of the Coral Sea, now it’s a thriving holiday destination and the perfect escape from the stresses of normal daily life. But the Port’s real strength comes from the locals who have resisted the temptations from big city developers to spoil their pristine coastline with high rise apartments.

Meander along the main street and you’ll find plenty of shops, cafes and restaurants bustling with tourists every day of the week. The best time to visit here is during the winter months when the temperature is a steady 28 degrees.

No getaway from the chills of winter would be complete without a visit to the Great Barrier Reef. They say the reef is dying and it may be too late to save it, but a marine biologist tells us he has never seen it so good.

8.30 on a cloudless morning and the marina is abuzz with young sun-tanned crews scurrying back and forth with divers gear and provisions for a day out on the reef.

Palm Cove.

We lined up like naughty children along side the Poseidon for the obligatory roll call, remove our shoes and then had our photo taken before scrambling on board to find the best seats on the lower deck. Over the days activities we visited three reefs, swam and snorkelled around the coral and experienced some of the most amazing marine life on earth.

While Port Douglas gets the lions share of tourists visiting the reef, it’s not until you take to the air by helicopter that you will truly realise its scale and diversity.

Our heads are really up in the sky as Brad King of SkySafari Helicopter Tours takes us up and up over Port Douglas and onto a wonder tour to the outer reef to sight first hand the incredible sea life from the air.

500 meters above sea level and this must be the states loftiest redoubt. Sea life as turtles, sand sharks and minky whales and if you’re on the money as we were, sea elephants feeding on the sea grass. And for the adventurous Brad will drop you off on your own private sand cay for a swim and a picnic lunch.       

SkySafari.

Leaving behind the frenetic pace of the Port the next morning we joined a bus tour to the Daintree. This is a standout activity in one of the world’s oldest rainforests untouched by climate change over millions of years. Numerous charter boats are available to ferry tourists along the eerily and quiet waterways in search of snakes and crocodiles. Their knowledgeable skippers are able to quickly spot the several species of snakes coiled in the dense but lush vegetation or spot the odd croc basking in the sun on the muddy riverbanks long before the tourists untrained eyes.

As our large river tin tub made its way along the riverbank an enormous croc is sighted mouth gaping and perfectly still. We had the security of the boat as we nudged closer and closer before this giant animal turned and slipped into the river to eye level ready to submerge as we backed away. Our natural instinct was to take flight and this was more than enough to set the pulse racing.         

Flames of the Forest, is an evening feast in the trees and is another of those must do experiences. Situated in an area of natural beauty on the banks of the Mowbray River that’s lit up by 300 flame pots each guiding diners to the most unique gourmet venue of the north.

After alighting the tour bus we followed the track gingerly through the serenely quiet rainforest until we reached a clearing where champagne and hors d’ oeuvres preceded the odyssey.

Great Barrier Reef.

Conversation with the other guests takes on new proportions before everyone is called to dinner by the local indigenous from the Bama tribe – the setting an imaginative designed large airy tent raised high above the ground. But don’t panic this is no amateur restaurant, for starters the cuisine’s too good. You eat banquet style from a set menu that includes prawns, spiced barramundi, sumac and dukkah encrusted chicken breast and vegetables. The food is so good it would put many restaurants to shame.

South of Port Douglas and a mere 30-minute drive is Palm Cove, a covered stretch of beachside real estate. An elegant and tranquil enclave of lush gardens, tropical palms, boutiques, cafes, restaurants and 5-star accommodation. And beyond lies a long curved sandy beach recently voted Australia’s cleanest.    

• Dennis and Rosamund Knill were assisted by Air New Zealand, Tourism Queensland, Blis Travelguard and Southern Cross Travel Insurance.