Overheard while strolling along the jetty at Palm Cove: “Gidday mate any sharks here? No mate, they’re all too scared of the crocodiles – dinkum!” Such is life in Northern Queensland where regardless of all the warning signs along the beaches the locals take it all in their stride. But not so the tour operators who see this as a lot of hype scaring tourists witless.
Cairns International Airport is the gateway and the tropical heart of the north. It’s also the perfect base from which to explore the surrounding tablelands. A 60-minute leisurely drive north along one of the most picturesque highways in the world brings you to Port Douglas, a small laid back coastal town that’s relaxed and relaxing. One of Australia’s ultimate holiday playgrounds Port Douglas is home to world-class resorts, long stretches of white sandy beaches, tropical rainforests and the main platform to the Great Barrier Reef.
Meander along the main street and you’ll find plenty of shops, cafes and restaurants bustling with tourists every day of the week. The best time to visit here is during the winter months when the temperature is a steady 28 degrees.
No getaway from the chills of winter would be complete without a visit to the Great Barrier Reef. They say the reef is dying and it may be too late to save it, but a marine biologist tells us he has never seen it so good.
8.30 on a cloudless morning and the marina is abuzz with young sun-tanned crews scurrying back and forth with divers gear and provisions for a day out on the reef.
While Port Douglas gets the lions share of tourists visiting the reef, it’s not until you take to the air by helicopter that you will truly realise its scale and diversity.
Our heads are really up in the sky as Brad King of SkySafari Helicopter Tours takes us up and up over Port Douglas and onto a wonder tour to the outer reef to sight first hand the incredible sea life from the air.
500 meters above sea level and this must be the states loftiest redoubt. Sea life as turtles, sand sharks and minky whales and if you’re on the money as we were, sea elephants feeding on the sea grass. And for the adventurous Brad will drop you off on your own private sand cay for a swim and a picnic lunch.
As our large river tin tub made its way along the riverbank an enormous croc is sighted mouth gaping and perfectly still. We had the security of the boat as we nudged closer and closer before this giant animal turned and slipped into the river to eye level ready to submerge as we backed away. Our natural instinct was to take flight and this was more than enough to set the pulse racing.
Flames of the Forest, is an evening feast in the trees and is another of those must do experiences. Situated in an area of natural beauty on the banks of the Mowbray River that’s lit up by 300 flame pots each guiding diners to the most unique gourmet venue of the north.
After alighting the tour bus we followed the track gingerly through the serenely quiet rainforest until we reached a clearing where champagne and hors d’ oeuvres preceded the odyssey.
South of Port Douglas and a mere 30-minute drive is Palm Cove, a covered stretch of beachside real estate. An elegant and tranquil enclave of lush gardens, tropical palms, boutiques, cafes, restaurants and 5-star accommodation. And beyond lies a long curved sandy beach recently voted Australia’s cleanest.
• Dennis and Rosamund Knill were assisted by Air New Zealand, Tourism Queensland, Blis Travelguard and Southern Cross Travel Insurance.
