The Roving Gourmets - Cibo

Parnell is an up-market enclave of first-rate restaurants and Cibo encapsulates the best bringing plenty of culinary interest and innovation to its menu.

Having reviewed many of Auckland’s best eateries it continues to be an indictment as to why this icon is constantly overlooked as one our best. While regularly on the award wining list Cibo is yet to be awarded the premium award by the establishment.  

Positioned inside the old Nestle building, Cibo is almost always packed with happy diners enjoying great food or just a drink at the bar. The décor is quite simple and uncluttered, white linen draped tables with fine-lined glassware. Outside, tables sit alongside a water feature shaded by umbrellas, time for the al fresco trade. One suspects the gas heaters will make their exit with the summer return.   

Scrutinising the menu, it’s easy to see why the place is so popular. Intense and sophisticated it leans towards a view of the world. From the description of the menu we got exactly what we expected. For entrees we chose a caesar salad ($22) with crispy pancetta and anchovies, and seared eye tuna ($24), spiced with cauliflower and red pepper jelly.

Great cooking came with our mains, the herb crusted john dory fish of the day ($38) served with corn pudding, zucchini and squid ink dressing was superb as was their much touted fish and chips ($28), twice as good as most of the best take-aways around town. Plate presentation was exemplary.  

And like the menu the front line staff decked out in their black and white attire carried out their duties with purpose and moved around the dining area with a disguised efficiency. They knew exactly when to come and when to go and how much to engage in pleasant conversation.

Cibo is also serious about wine driving a vast but expensive wine list with rare delights with the likes of ’07 Cloudy Bay Te Koko sauvignon blanc ($92.50) and ’06 Puriri Hills merlot/cabernet ($85). We opted for ’10 Brancott sauvignon blanc ($61) one of Pernod Ricard’s premium vintages from Marlborough layered with ripe tropical fruit and palate richness.